According to NorthEastern University, there are 4 stages of culture shock.
1. The Honeymoon Phase Everything is “new and exciting”
2. The Frustration Phase Difficulty sleeping, increased worrying, exhaustion
3. Adjustment Phase Becoming familiar with the “culture, people, food and language”
4. Acceptance Phase Reaching a point where you no longer feel like a foreigner
This is not a linear progression, but more of a back and forth motion between each of the stages as time progresses and as you are exposed to new situation in the new culture.
 |
| Karaku Park, Tokyo |
To be honest, I was in the honeymoon phase, with regards to Japan, before I even arrived! Ever since 2013, I’ve been researching Japan and absorbing as much cultural and geographical information as possible. I studied the language and attempted to build up a decent vocabulary to prepare for, what, at the time, I thought would be a month long visit, but what has ended up being a 10 month working holiday. Mind, using the word “holiday” very loosely. There were so many places I wanted to visit and see: In Tokyo: The Tokyo Skytree, Akihabara’s Electric Town, Odaiba, the Imperial Palace; Kyoto, the Seto Inland Sea; Mt. Fuji; Fushimi Inari; the castles; the history!
There was so much food I wanted to experience: Yakitori, soba, gyoza, sashimi, sushi, okonomiyaki, udon, and crazy flavored sodas.
So, for the last two years I’ve been soaking up the culture before I even arrived. The honeymoon phase lasted so long because I was seeing and familiarizing myself with all of the new things, but experiencing none of the negatives of being outside my own culture or comfort zone.
Once I arrived in Japan I was in for not just culture shock, but the added stress of learning a new role, teaching, and a good amount of jet lag from the 14 hour time difference to my home country. This did not contribute immediately to my shift into the dreaded second phase, but it laid the groundwork for a rapid change in attitude and perspective.
 |
| Osaka |
The nature of my offer of employment was that I need to be as flexible as possible. I wouldn’t know when or where I would be called to. When I arrived, I didn’t know where I’d be assigned to or, indeed, when I would be assigned. As training continued it came down to myself and one other trainee that had not yet been assigned. Finally, on the last day, I was given an assigned area and was given my moving orders.
Some of the first things that I noticed was how quiet people are in public spaces. My first train ride from the airport to Tokyo was deathly quiet, although the train was far from empty. There’s something a little eerie about walking through one of the world’s busiest train stations in Tokyo and not hearing a deafening roar of conversations, laughter, and commotion, but such quiet that all you hear is the movement of people’s clothing and their footsteps.
Walking around the streets of Tokyo I noticed how bright all the lights were; not only the signs outside the pachinko parlors, but inside shops and stores alike. It’s almost like the intensity of a surgery table.
I also noticed the smell of cigarettes, not just outside, but inside of buildings as well! This brought back childhood memories from before the Clean Air Act when cafes and bowling alleys reeked of stale smoke and burned the lungs. I was surprised to see how prevalent smoking still is in Japan. There are even vending machines where you can buy cigarettes.
Another fascinating cultural difference, but also subtly frustrating, is the lack of any outward emotion on the faces of the populace. They carry, not an arrogant look of pride or haughtiness, but a blank face. If you have ever seen the anime “Spirited Away,” the character No-Face comes to mind. He basically embodies the Japanese while in public. They show no anger or frustration. Occasionally someone will be smiling, but it will be more of a self reflective inward smile rather than a contagious, outgoing smile. I found this very frustrating. I found this very frustrating at first as I tend to want to acknowledge each person I meet on the street or anywhere. Whether it be a shared look, a nod, a “hello,” or a smile. I have found a useful trick to get around this issue. People on duty and in uniforms: security guards, police, train workers, etc. will always return a bow or a “konichiwa.” Whether it’s the obligation of the uniform and duties associated with it or not, I don’t care! As long as I can have some form of human interaction that isn’t silence and a blank stare into oblivion. Sometimes there is comfort in the assurance that you won’t be engaged socially, but I feel that if you were depressed this would allow you to insulate yourself even while still going out.
In addition to Japanese people’s seemingly indifferent public face, I also noticed that many foreigners in Japan are the same. I haven’t quite figured out this phenomenon, but I do have a few theories. It could be the factor of peer pressure. Executed nearly without fail by all members of Japanese society, the impulsion to act as the crowd and avoid expressing any sort of kinship with fellow foreigners seems to prevail.
Another theory is that many foreigners have adapted fully to life in Japanese culture and have assimilated into the Japanese way of life.
A possible theory that I have used in my own time living and travelling abroad is avoidance of association to avoid embarrassment. In particular, I recall going to Paris on a short trip. I was enjoying the romantic atmosphere and enchantment of being in the city of lights when suddenly I was ripped from my dreamlike state by a group of very loud and disruptive American college students. Normally, my desire to acknowledge people, especially my compatriots, is very strong, but I had the luxury of blending in, as I didn’t look very “touristy” and pretended not to notice and made no attempt to engage my fellow Americans.
Likewise, in Wales, I had the ability to blend in with the general populace when I wanted to and used this to my advantage to either avoid attention or avoid embarrassing situations, when needed. This applies less so in Japan because of the homogeneity of Japan and the apparent differences in physical appearance with most of the Western world.
Another theory is the fact that just because someone is foreign, doesn’t mean that they speak the same language. Yes, in Japan, you can spot a non-Asian person from a football field’s length away, but, in reality, they could be from anywhere! Even Japan! This still doesn’t explain the reason they don’t even acknowledge or look at you, but could be related.
Another theory that was suggested to me was the “My Japan” attitude. The idea is that some people feel that their travel to, and experiences in Japan are deeply personal and do not want to “share” that experience with any other foreigners. They largely tend to be in their own world of discovery and simply aren’t interested in meeting fellow travelers.
Regardless of the reasons, being largely ignored, by both the Japanese people and foreigners (living in or visiting Japan), may be the rule, but there are plenty of exceptions. I have been approached several times by Japanese people who were more than happy to tell me all sorts of things! Don’t ask me what they were because I do not speak Japanese! I didn’t understand much of what was said, but I was happy for the interaction.
Likewise, I have shared a few of my coveted smiles, nods, and general acknowledgment with foreigners and even had some conversations. Everyone is an individual and has the potential to break the norm or follow the stoic crowd. I keep my head up and try to stay exceptional!
Moving along, I also noticed how clean the trains and general public spaces are. There is next to no litter, despite a gross lack of trash cans. There are also plants, especially flowering plants, everywhere. They are growing in every nook and cranny. So much so that there is a distinct lack of grass spaces to be seen. Any area large enough to be a rice field that doesn’t have a building in it is utilized as a rice field. Neighborhoods grow potted plants in any space conceivable. Even the street gutters have plants in pots growing vegetables.
The politeness of customer service representatives is impeccable. Whether it’s a restaurant in a back alley or a large supermarket or department store; each person is treated with the same level of courtesy and respect. No one is frustrated, no one is looking bored or disenchanted with their jobs. It’s impressive, to say the least.
I’m going to combine the next few things as they are similar in function and helped me to survive my first few weeks in Japan. Convenience stores. You’ve most likely heard of 7-11 or Circle K, but there are several others: Lawson’s, Family-Mart, and Daily Yamazaki. The amazing thing about the “konbinis”, as they are called, is that they are indeed convenient! They are also everywhere. You can buy your regular gas station snacks, drinks, hot foods, and assorted essentials such as batteries and lighters. But, you can also buy stationery, pens, handkerchiefs, power adapters, soap, pre-made lunches (bentos), and laundry detergent. In addition to all of this, you can usually copy or print papers or photos, pay bills (electric, gas, etc.), withdraw money, and mail letters! They are a one-stop-shop for any quick essentials.
As convenient, and even more frequently encountered, are vending machines. There are vending machines in nearly every street, train station, alley, building, etc. They embody the word ubiquitous. Most of these contain a selection of water, soda water, sodas, coffees, teas, and fruit drinks. There are also vending machines for instant ramen, hot foods and drinks, frozen treats, and, as mentioned before, cigarettes.
The last thing in my survivalist objects list is 100 yen stores. These are so useful as everything is price at 100 yen! There are basic household supplies, food of all kinds, drinks, and any number of clothing and miscellaneous items. These are useful for stocking up a newly moved into apartment or holiday home or for getting some snacks to survive the day at a reasonable price.
Another thing that left an impression on me is the efficiency and punctuality of public transport in Japan. The trains are almost never behind and are sometimes early! The buses are somewhat less successful on punctuality, but no less efficient. If a bus arrives to the stop early and you’re not there? Tough cookies. It’s moving down the route. It is amazing to me how well the train system runs. Considering the sheer volume of passengers and the amount of trains that run on each line, it’s a wonder that there aren’t more delays or problems.
 |
| Odaiba's Gundam |
Again, I studied Japanese culture for nearly two years before coming here. Nearly every point I’ve mentioned was already part of my book knowledge of the life and culture of Japan. But, experiencing it firsthand made a huge impression on me. How much more do those who haven’t studied have a deeper impression made on their perspectives and attitudes?
I stayed in the honeymoon phase for one week. Until the realization that I was moving to a new city the next day and possibly teaching, something I had a week’s worth of training for but no practical experience to speak of, my first lessons the day after that. My stress levels rose, my ability to sleep was hampered, and by the end of the second week I was completely exhausted, emotionally and physically; and ready to quit. Each day it became harder to face the reality that this would be my life for the next 10 months. Thankfully, my family, girlfriend, friends, and one of my trainers were all there to support and encourage me. Generally, I broke through the frustration phase fairly quickly after a brief breakdown and I am now in the adjustment phase. I know that there will be relapses back into frustration. Especially when dealing with the day to day struggles of paying bills, shopping, ordering food, and sorting garbage. All while using a language that I am a pitiful beginner at and have very little useful knowledge in.
This period in Japan, so far, has given me so much to take back home already. One of the most exciting things about returning home after being away so long is that I will have a brief period of reverse culture shock and gain new perspectives on my own culture. You learn to appreciate the aspects of both your culture and that of the country you just came from in comparison to each other and learn more about yourself and your identity in the process. It has been a difficult process, but the personal growth and insight I have and will gain are invaluable to living a better and more appreciative life in this ever small world that we’re a part of.
